TRANSMISSION UPGRADES: REASSEMBLING THE TRANSMISSION
Please read and understand these instructions before you begin.
We here at Waterloo Specialties have tried to write this so that you can do this in a step by step process. If you have any questions, call 410-795-0988 we will be glad to assist you.

A special note about bearings used. Some of the transmissions you will take apart will only have 8 balls in the bearing for the input shaft. It is reccomended that you replace this bearing with a 1308SL bearing which has 11 balls.
 
ASSEMBLY OF SUBASSEMBLIES
NOTES:
When Anti-Seize compound is called for, just a very thin film is all that is required.

Be careful not to apply pressure to edge of gear teeth as chipping may occur. Support the gear away from the edge if at all possible. Otherwise support edge of gear with hardwood strip or soft metal-like copper bar.

Your old transmission is now apart and cleaned so lets begin with the countershaft; this is the bottom shaft of the transmission.
 
A. COUNTERSHAFT -
  • Coat countershaft and fifth-speed gear bore with a film of anti-seize. Place assembly in press, aline NEW fifth-speed gear keyway with woodruff key and press the gear onto the countershaft. Secure gear in place with a good snap ring.
NOTE: Install fifth-speed gear with the hub of the gear facing toward the front of the countershaft.
  • Coat countershaft and input gear bore with a film of anti-seize. Place the countershaft and countershaft drive gear under the press, line up the woodruff key with the keyway in the gear and press into position. Secure gear in place with a good snap ring. Again, do not apply pressure to the edge of gear teeth.
The counter shaft is now finished.

Next lets put the mainshaft togeather.
 
B. MAINSHAFT ASSEMBLY -
  • Wash new parts in laquer thinner to remove preservative. Stand mainshaft on rear end (threads). Install wire ring in groove of mainshaft. Position the split needle bearings on the mainshaft and slide the second speed gear (gear with 4 holes in web of gear) carefully over them. Install 2 NEW woodruff keys. The keys may be a tight fit in the shaft, start them as well centered as you can, front to rear. They should just clear the wire ring and not stick out into the snap ring groove.
  • Coat the second- and third-speed synchronizer (new hub supplied) hub bore and mainshaft with a very thin film of anti-seize, start the NEW hub on the mainshaft, machined notch end first. Align hub with keys. Now turn the shaft over and place into the press, between two parallel bars. Do not put the bars against the shaft, they should have 1/4" clearance so they do not hit the shaft where it is larger. The 2nd gear will be held up by the keys. As the hub nears the wire ring, lift the gear to see that the wire ring passes safely into the hub.
 
Slowly press hub into position and stop as soon as the snap ring will go in it's groove.

Be very careful to stop when the wire ring is felt, you will feel increased resistance from press.
  • Secure the hub using a new snap ring.
  • Install the second- and third-speed synchronizer with the offset hub to the rear.
  • Install third speed gear on mainshaft.
 

Your mainshaft should look like this now.
 
  • Coat the NEW fifth-speed gear sleeve and mainshaft with a film of anti-seize and install fifth-speed gear sleeve to mainshaft and press into place.
 
 

Slide thrust washer onto shaft and check to see that the snap ring will fit into groove. Snap ring should just fit with no play, but not so tight that it won't go into groove.
 
  • Install needle bearing set and very carefully slide on NEW mainshaft fifth-speed gear and NEW thrust washer. Step in washer goes to rear. Secure in place using a new snap ring.
 
Do not use snap ring pliers to install this ring. Use several very small screwdrivers to just work the ring onto the end of the shaft without stretching it too much. Then slide it down the shaft and into the groove.
The ring will bend and not return to a small enough shape unless you are careful not to expand it too much.

You can use snap ring pliers to just ease the tension of the ring so it will slide down shaft, but do not use them to get ring over the end of the shaft as the ring will be bent too much.
NOTE: Be sure snap ring is fully seated in mainshaft groove.
 
  • With an oil can, squirt some oil on needle bearings for 2nd and 5th and also on the hub area of 3rd.
 
The mainshaft is now fully assembled.

Now lets get the input shaft ready.
 
C. INPUT SHAFT -
  • If replacing the bearing, place the input shaft ball bearing on the input shaft. Place the input shaft between two parallel blocks, spline downward. Using an arbor press, press the input shaft ball bearing onto the shaft. Secure bearing to input shaft using a good snap ring. Leave outer ring off of the bearing until later.
NOTE: Coat the input shaft and ball bearing bore with anti-seize, before pressing the ball bearing assembly on the shaft.
  • Coat the input shaft roller bearing bore with a medium coating of grease, install the input shaft roller bearings. There are 14 rollers. Insert the last roller bearing endwise into the bearing assembly. Use enough grease to hold them in place.
Input shaft with bearing is now finished.

Now we are ready to put it all in the case.
 
D. FINAL ASSEMBLY -
 

Countershaft front bearing should still be in case, if not slide it in now. Use grease to hold the thin washer on front of countershaft.
 
 

Install countershaft assembly in bottom of case with wire under it just behind front gear. You may or may not need this wire in a further step. It may be tricky to get the countershaft into the case. Do not force it, just be gentle and it should just slide between the case and front idler shaft boss. In the worst case you may have to remove a very little from case and boss to get clearance. Position the front bearing area of the shaft so it is just started into the bearing race, about 1/16".
 
 

Install the input shaft with bearing into case from inside. Bearing will be a very close fit in the case so you may need to use a block of wood and tap gently with a hammer. Do not put ring on outside of bearing or front bearing cap on yet.
 
 

Put first and reverse gear into the case with the fork slot towards the front and slide the mainshaft into the first and reverse gear and through the transmission case rear bearing opening.
 
 
 
 

Install the fourth-and fifth-speed synchronizer on mainshaft, with the larger diameter clutch ring to rear, then lower front of mainshaft while lifting rear and carefully slide into the 14 rollers in input gear. Be gentle so as to not move the countershaft. Now move the entire top shaft, input included, to the rear so there is about 3/8" gap between front gear and case.
 
  • There are two ways to accomplish this next step. First if the countershaft has not moved you may be able to apply force towards the front and lift the rear and have it go right in. If it does then be careful it does not slide back out and install the rear bearing and cover as in steps below.
  • Otherwise the second way: Two people may be needed to do this step easily, one person holding mainshaft into input shaft and the other person using wire to lift front of countershaft and hand to lift rear, move gears into mesh and slide counter shaft into front bearing while at the same time sliding mainshaft and input shaft forward. Install snap ring onto input shaft bearing and install input shaft bearing cap using a new front gasket. Tighten the four cap screws to 13-17 lb-ft torque.
  • Hold countershaft forward while installing mainshaft rear bearing. Use a wooden block
    and mallet to drive bearing into place.
  • Place spacer and flange onto mainshaft and tighten nut to pull shaft and bearing into position.
    Until you do this the gears may not want to turn since 2nd gear will be too close to other parts.
    You can use a 1/2" impact gun to do this and as soon as the nut is tight, take it back off.
 
  • Install mainshaft rear bearing cap assembly using a new gasket. Tighten the four cap screws and lockwashers to 25-32 lb-ft torque.
  • Install rear bearing onto countershaft and into case. Slide the gears on the mainshaft to lock the transmission shafts from turning. Install washer and nut on counter shaft and tighten to 120-150 lb-ft torque. Install cotter pin. Install countershaft rear bearing cover using a new gasket. Tighten the four cap screws and lock washers to 25-32 lb-ft torque.
 
NOTE: After applying torque, tighten nut to closest cotter pin hole.
 
  • Install clutch bell housing using a new gasket. Tighten the five cap screws and lock washers to 60-80 lb-ft torque.
  • Install the clutch release yoke, yoke keys, and clutch release shaft. Tighten the two cap screws and lock washers to 40-50 lb-ft torque.
NOTES:
- Check to be sure it shifts ok now with just a couple of bolts in top cover and no gasket. Take cover back off for installation of transmission in truck.

- You will find it easier to install the transmission in your truck now, without the top cover, and add oil after it is in. Keep top covered with rags or a cut piece of cardboard while installing, to keep debris and dirt out.
 
  • Fill transmission with 5 quarts of 40wt motor oil. Valvoline VR1 is a good choice.
  • Place shifter forks in neutral, and place transmission gears and synchronizers in neutral position. Install shifter shaft cover using a new gasket. Be sure cover assembly is seated and tighten the eight cap screws and lock washers to 25-32 lb-ft torque.
 

 
DATA PLATES
 

Data plate with holes is for dash. It will fit on the narrow section between the instrument panel and windshield.
 

The other plate is for the transmission, you can glue it on or use the drive pins included to secure it. Oil plate should go near the filler plug.
 

This page last updated on 05-14-2012
Tom Bauer (410) 549-6649 waterloospecialties@hughes.net